The Most Underrated Watch Brands, According to Collectors and Insiders

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Underestimated, unappreciated, unrecognized—you may not associate these words with Vacheron Constantin, a member of horology’s prestigious “holy trinity” (along with Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe), but collector Paul Engel makes a compelling case that the brand, at least in the vintage realm, is worth more—attention, money, acclaim—than the marketplace is currently giving it.

He’s among the handful of watch lovers who responded to our simple query: What’s your favorite underrated watch brand (modern or vintage) and why do you think it deserves greater appreciation?

The wide variety of responses we received—singling out independent makers we’ve never heard of as well as firmly established brands that may not be receiving their due—suggests that recognition is a fuzzy, and increasingly controversial, concept in watchmaking. Even brands that win the industry’s glitziest awards and make objectively beautiful and well-crafted timepieces may not impress on the secondary market, which, in an era obsessed with resale value, means they’re seen as something of a disappointment.

Though perhaps not for long, if our commentators, whose persuasive remarks are featured below, have anything to do with it.

Asher Rapkin, cofounder, Collective Horology

“Laurent Ferrier and Marco Tedeschi both deserve more attention. LF is well known, but in an industry obsessed with the next new thing, it doesn’t get enough credit for what it’s quietly done best for years: refined design and phenomenal, classical movements that make some of the finest dress watches available today. Marco Tedeschi is doing something entirely different: future-forward tourbillons that are as technically impressive as they are aesthetically new. The MT1.1 is the perfect example. If you only know his work through Kross Studio, it’s worth another look.”

Courtney Bachrach, @tinywristcheck

“Vintage Chopard, particularly its women’s watches from the 1970s. The designs from this period were incredibly bold, using hard stone dials, sculptural gold bracelets, openwork construction, and strong geometric shapes, often built around mechanical movements. There was a real focus on design, from oversized ovals and circles to unconventional case shapes and highly articulated bracelets, with bold color coming from a wide range of hard stones.

“Other brands from the same period have achieved stronger auction results, but I think Chopard has an aesthetic that translates much more naturally to fashion today. The watches still feel chic, modern and wearable, which is why I think the depth of Chopard’s women’s archive remains surprisingly underrated, at least for the moment.”

Georgia Benjamin, @georgiabenj

“Bueche Girod is one of those brands where you say the name and people say, ‘Come again?!’ The ’70s pieces in particular are spectacular: incredible gold craftsmanship, beautiful use of stone on the dials and case, just really distinctive design-forward pieces. I have this wonderfully ornate gold piece with a diamond-shaped case that was my grandmother’s—I get so many compliments on it. When I see them up for auction, I get so excited. They are wildly underrated, incredibly chic, and I want to snap up every single one that I see.”

Paul Engel, founder, Aircooltime Substack

“My choice would be Vacheron Constantin, especially its watches from the 1950s. While the brand has been attracting renewed interest, particularly following the reissue of its historic 1970s 222 model, many vintage references still lag behind in market appreciation.

“Vacheron produced remarkably avant-garde designs during the 1950s—daring cases, unusual proportions, and exceptionally refined dial details. It was one of the first vintage brands I was drawn to for precisely those reasons. Despite their historical importance and genuine rarity, I think some of Vacheron’s most distinctive vintage watches remain underappreciated by collectors today.”

William Massena, founder, Massena LAB

“Breguet deserves a second look because it offers a direct connection between an extraordinary history and a recognizable design language. Abraham-Louis Breguet did more than lend his name to a dial. His work helped shape the mechanical watch itself, and the house still speaks in a visual vocabulary of guilloché, blued hands, discreet signatures, and carefully balanced proportions.

“Yet Breguet is often overlooked in a market driven by scarcity, celebrity, and resale value. That is precisely why it is interesting. A Classique can be appreciated for its elegance and technical substance without requiring the owner to explain a waiting list. Even its more assertive designs retain an unmistakable identity. For collectors willing to judge a watch on the wrist, Breguet offers real depth: historical credibility, serious watchmaking, and the quiet pleasure of owning something that does not need to shout to be noticed.”

John Pankauski, collector, Florida

“Nicolas Delaloye is my favorite independent watchmaker. I visited Nicolas in his studio this summer. I can’t believe his waitlist is not longer.

“What’s under the hood is technical precision—100% designed and finished complications, and mechanisms, framed like a work of art. Just look at the transparent casebacks. Masterpieces in the making. From his workshop, you can see the big brands who wish their watchmakers had Nicolas’ talent. Beyond the aesthetics, just lift his Tantalum Renaissance. There is a heft to it, telling you there is something important going on. Beauty and precision on your wrist by this masterful Swiss maker, who spent years handling the most complicated, precious pieces at Patek Philippe—the OG along with Voutilainen, Dufour, and Smith.

“His wait list is growing across the globe. Beyond the beauty of his timepieces, and the industry respect, if you tour the Patek museum, you can still see Nicolas on their videos presented on the tour—as he should be.”

Stephen Pulvirent, founder, Rime & Reason

“Despite all of its success, I still think Bulgari is criminally underrated. The Octo Finissimo (in all of its myriad forms and configurations) is one of the watches that will be looked at as representative of this era in watchmaking and watch collecting when the history books get written. And the brand still manages to ooze style and creativity across its other offerings—you’ll never mistake a Bulgari for anything else.”