Famed Sonoma Vineyard Monte Rosso Is Finally Making Wine of Its Own

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It’s not every day that Sonoma County is compared to Tuscany, but winemaker Bernardino Sani makes a strong case when drawing parallels between Monte Rosso Estate in the Moon Mountain District to Argiano, the Montalcino estate where he also makes wine. “Both are incredibly beautiful estates, with unique vineyards set in spectacular and very picturesque landscapes that immediately communicate a strong sense of place,” the Tuscany native tells Robb Report. “Both properties have deep roots and long traditions. And in both cases, there is a strong respect for preserving the identity and heritage of the vineyards.” They now have one more thing in common: Long a source of grapes for some of the region’s best wineries such as Louis M. Martini, Carlisle, Bedrock Wine Company, and Robert Biale Vineyards, Monte Rosso Estate just released the first stunning vintage under its own label, and bottles are already being snapped up by collectors and finding their way onto some of the best wine lists in the country.

John Phillips, a Bentonville, Arkansas, wine collector, first heard about Monte Rosso Estate’s inaugural releases—a Sémillon, a Zinfandel field blend, a Bordeaux-style red blend, and a single-block Cabernet Sauvignon—from a friend who hosts wine dinners for the Gallo Luxury Group. With a cellar that includes bottles from the likes of Heitz Cellars, Tor, Dominus, Pahlmeyer, and Vine Hill Ranch, Phillips bought 24 bottles, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, but some of each varietal, including the Sémillon, which his wife Marsha particularly liked. “We have purchased the Martini Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel wines for years and appreciated the old vine wines,” he says, so he jumped at the chance to buy proprietary bottlings from the estate.

The pinnacle of the bottlings is the Monte Rosso Estate 2023 Los Niños Cabernet Sauvignon, from a 3.7-acre block planted in 1940 by the vineyard’s previous owner, Louis M. Martini. Believed to be the oldest block of Cabernet Sauvignon still producing fruit in the state, Los Niños is described by Sani as the “grand cru” of Monte Rosso. “The block combines beautiful volcanic soils, old vines, and an exceptional exposure overlooking the San Pablo Bay, all of which contribute to producing a very distinctive expression of Cabernet Sauvignon,” he explains. Interestingly, the old vines also carry some naturally occurring viruses that slightly slow down the ripening process. While this may sound unusual, Sani points out, “it actually helps create a more elegant and refined style of Cabernet Sauvignon, with freshness, complexity, and balance.”

The Impression, a Cabernet Franc-dominant red blend that also contains Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, was originally conceived as a Cabernet Sauvignon-led Bordeaux style cuvée. “My initial vision was to give Bernardino the freedom to create a traditional Bordeaux blend, utilizing any block in the vineyard he chose to craft the best blend possible,” estate director Diego Del Pino says. However, things took a twist when he and Sani went to Louis M. Martini to taste through barrel samples from a prior vintage. “We tasted several Cabernet Sauvignons and then we sampled from one of the Cabernet Franc barrels. He smelled it, looked at me and said, ‘This is the star.’”

And while Zinfandel is not usually thought of as a luxury varietal, Del Pino says the historic blocks of Zinfandel are what put Monte Rosso on the map. “We have roughly 40 acres of ancient vines and most of them are planted to Zinfandel, which in some blocks is interplanted with other varieties like Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, and Grand Noir,” he explains. A true field blend selected from the two blocks with most of these interplanted varieties, Del Pino says the Zinfandel-heavy blend is called the Essence “because that is the soul of Monte Rosso. The varieties are harvested and fermented together, which helps create a very natural integration between the different grapes and contributes to the wine’s complexity and energy.”

The 2023 vintage from which all four releases hail was considered exceptional in Sonoma County. Sani says the very long and gentle ripening season allowed the grapes to achieve excellent phenolic maturity while preserving freshness, balance, and aromatic complexity. “It was one of those vintages where patience in the vineyard was rewarded.” The near-perfect conditions affected each vineyard parcel and variety differently, but the result is outstanding across the board. Los Niños benefited from the slow and even ripening conditions, allowing for a relatively late harvest that led to high concentration and vibrant acidity. Both the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc destined for the Impression achieved superb phenolic ripeness, with the Cabernet Franc developing beautiful aromatic complexity without excessive herbal notes that can be a hallmark of the variety.

While many of us think whites are best enjoyed young, it’s important to remember there is a history of long-aged Sémillon in both France and Australia. Sani works with the Sémillon in a very reductive style, limiting its exposure to oxygen in the winemaking process. The goal is to preserve its natural high acidity, which is fundamental for long aging potential. He thinks the 2023’s rich and broad profile, which makes it enjoyable today, will evolve over the next 10 years or more. “For lovers of mature white wines, I think the ideal drinking window could easily extend from five to fifteen years after release,” Sani says.

Another fan of the Sémillon is Hamid Khalili, director of operations at Michelin-starred Rania in Washington, D.C., who serves it alongside a wide range of dishes including Hokkaido scallops with Mangalorean curry and grilled fennel. While he believes white wines with texture and minerality are a natural pairing with Indian food, the heritage of old Semillon vines planted in 1886 along with the scarcity of production is what truly captures his guests’ attention. Del Pino says with its volcanic soils, ample sunshine, and cool breezes from San Pablo Bay, “the Monte Rosso Vineyard has an incredible personality.” And as the first estate releases fully attest, so do its wines.

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