Pomellato’s New High Jewelry Collection Is Wonderfully Eclectic

Pomellato is freestyling with high jewelry.

The Milanese jewelry house, founded by Pino Rabolini in 1967, just unveiled a new collection that celebrates the freedom of both creation and self-expression. Fittingly christened Stile Libero, or “free style” in English, the line includes 65 pieces that are at once bold, bright, and beautiful. 

“Stile Libero embodies high jewelry in the free-spirited Pomellato way,” Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli said in a statement. “Each creation holds precious stories of creativity and craftsmanship: jewels that unite distant worlds and push creative boundaries, emblems of beauty and wonder, conceived for women who are free, strong, and authentic protagonists of their own style.”

The collection is rooted in eclecticism—the movement that broke strict conventions to instead combine the best elements from various systems or historic styles. That ars combinatoria, or “art of combinations,” is reflected in the diverse forms, colors, and materials within the line. 

“Stile Libero is the art of moving instinctively, embracing the courage to blend skills and mastery,” adds Pomellato creative director Vincenzo Castaldo. “It is creativity expressed without fear, refined, liberated, and touched by a quiet, thoughtful provocation.”

Pomellato’s dual mastery of goldsmithing and gem-setting is on full display, with the pieces showcasing striking, openwork gold and vibrant stone compositions. The collection unfolds across three chapters: Visionary Colors, Magnetic Gold, and Hypnotic Shadows. 

Visionary Colors is all about chromatic audacity, with gemstones being the major focus. The gems showcase both bold hues and unexpected geometries, making them a cut above regular white diamonds. The house has also embraced prong settings, known as griffes, to give more height, light, and presence to each stone. Highlights include Mandala Chromia, a gold medallion necklace with brown diamonds framing an openwork motif set with 99 rare multicolor natural sapphires; Drops of Paraíba, a choker adorned with 21 pear-shaped Paraíba tourmalines; and Rainbow Supreme, a rivière necklace featuring a chromatic gradation of 68 round-cut tourmalines totaling more than 157 carats.

Magnetic Gold sees gold chains, chokers, bracelets, earrings, and statement rings decorated with diamonds in unusual cuts and colors. One standout is the Byzantine choker featuring nine emerald-cut brown diamonds and custom rose-gold bezels with crater-like contours.

Last but not least, Hypnotic Shadows is an ode to openwork goldsmithing, with hand-pierced gold creating decorative, lace-like designs. The Arabesque necklace, for example, which requires 1,450 hours of work, features intricate rose gold illuminated by 18 fancy rose-cut diamonds.

Stile Libero isn’t the only thing Pomellato has been working on. The house is currently holding its first exhibition in Paris. Running from now until July 20 at the Palais de Tokyo, Pomellato, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire will showcase archival images by Albert Watson, Helmut Newton, and Lord Snowdon, among other artists.